Your Travel Guide to Thailand
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When we talk about Koh Phi Phi, we're mainly talking about Phi Phi Don, which is the largest island in the Koh Phi Phi archipelago, the one that's inhabited and where all the hotels are located. Off the coast of Krabi, this paradise island was badly hit by the 2004 tsunami but quickly rebuilt with more permanent bungalows to better cope with this type of disaster. Phi Phi Island is a popular tourist destination and probably the most famous island in Thailand after Phuket and Koh Samui. With its fine white sand beaches, turquoise waters, cliffs and lush greenery, three beautiful viewpoints, and a seabed that will amaze diving enthusiasts, novices and experienced alike, it's a truly postcard-perfect setting.
Only, it's also a victim of its own success, with the village of Ton Sai, the largest on the island, located on the isthmus that connects the two large mountains of the main island, truly becoming a place entirely dedicated to tourists. In proportions that can be somewhat off-putting for travelers seeking authenticity and local life. As soon as you arrive by boat at the port of Ton Sai, you're in the thick of things with a large Burger King right there! The village, pedestrianized, is nothing but restaurants, diving clubs, excursions to Koh Phi Phi agencies, 7 Eleven, bars, supermarkets, souvenir shops, small hotels, guesthouses and dormitories for backpackers: everything for tourism and tourists. It is here and around the beaches of Tonsai and Loh Dalum that the majority of hotels are concentrated. In high season, tourists are very numerous on Koh Phi Phi. Afterwards, there are small beaches a little more isolated, quieter and more pleasant, notably those near the other small village of Koh Phi Phi, that of Bakao Bay. Much more pleasant, in my opinion. And for those looking for a lively island with beach parties, plenty of activities and boat tours, to dive in stunning locations, or to spend a family vacation without worrying about being in the middle of the tourist crowds, Koh Phi Phi is perfect. Despite its prices, there are quite a few backpackers who come for fun, and the legalization of cannabis, which, on Koh Phi Phi perhaps more than elsewhere, has led to the proliferation of cannabis outlets, also attracts these young tourists looking for a paradise setting with everything at hand and plenty of opportunities to party.
The island of Phi Phi Leh, on the other hand, is uninhabited. Its splendor is known worldwide as it was the main filming location for Danny Boyle's film The Beach, featuring the famous Maya Bay.
On Koh Phi Phi, the range of tourist accommodation is quite wide, ranging from backpacker dormitories to 5-star resorts like the SAii Phi Phi Island Village. The highest concentration of guesthouses and hotels on Koh Phi Phi is located in the village of Tonsai between Tonsai and Loh Dalum beaches. This is the corner of the island with the highest tourist density by far, but also the one where you'll find everything you need and more (there's even a Burger King). In this corner of the island, it's difficult to avoid noise at night, so bring earplugs or plan to party until late. Although if you sleep close to the start of the climb to the Koh Phi Phi viewpoints, you'll hear the party noise from far enough away that it won't disturb your sleep too much. Note that there are occasional thefts from Koh Phi Phi hotel rooms (often by other tourists), so take precautions.
Outside the village of Tonsai, there are a few hotels scattered around the other beaches, often accessible only by boat. This is, for me, the best way to enjoy Koh Phi Phi if you don't like big crowds.
During high season, from December to March-April, it's quite difficult to arrive on Koh Phi Phi without having booked a room in advance and hoping to find somewhere to stay without struggling. In low season, it's more feasible. In high season, prices skyrocket, even for a dorm bed.
Koh Phi Phi is one of the hardest places in Thailand to find really well-rated hotels. Probably because of the tourist numbers, hotels have less to do with maintenance, cleaning, and even reception, and because in the village, it's hard to have any noise at night, especially.
Like some other islands in Thailand, Koh Phi Phi has implemented a tax, which here is 20 THB per person, for the preservation of the environment to be paid upon arrival at Tonsai Pier (if you arrive elsewhere, it won't be asked of you, but shh!). Koh Phi Phi is one of the most touristy islands in Thailand and probably the one with the highest density of tourists per square meter in the village of Tonsai. Here, the high season runs from December to March and then it slowly declines to a really low season from May to November. In high season, you'll find huge crowds, lots of activity, and nighttime parties on the beach, especially at Ibiza on Loh Dalum Beach. Your excursions to Koh Phi Phi, especially to Maya Bay, will be packed.
If you're looking for a party island with beautiful scenery and interesting excursions, you'll love Koh Phi Phi even in high season. Otherwise, come in the low season or choose an island less popular with tourists.
Generally, to get to Koh Phi Phi from Bangkok, travelers prefer to fly to Phuket or Krabi and from there take the boats or ferries that connect to the island. Alternatively, they can make the same journey not by plane but by bus, as Phuket and Krabi are not accessible by train.
Alternatively, there are speedboat lines that connect Koh Phi Phi to Koh Lanta, Koh Kipe, or the Trang Islands (Koh Kook, Koh Ngai, Koh Kradan) during high season.
To get around Koh Phi Phi, you'll either have to walk or hire a longtail boat to get from beach to beach. Look for the Taxi Boat signs. The price depends on the distance. If you're carrying luggage, there are trolley-pushing services available at the end of Tonsai Pier. This service is sometimes offered free of charge by Koh Phi Phi hotels.
There are also mountain trails to explore around the island, including the 3 Viewpoints of Koh Phi Phi. It's a bit of a challenge, but hiking enthusiasts and those looking to escape the crowds of Tonsay and Loh Dalum will enjoy it! There's even an agency that offers a very enjoyable trek on Koh Phi Phi with a French-speaking guide.
A short guide to help you choose among the beaches of Koh Phi Phi. Some are accessible only by boat, while others are accessible by boat or via a mountain trek, the duration of which will depend on your starting point. I'm only talking about the beaches of Koh Phi Phi Don, the island where all the resorts are located, and excluding Monkey Beach, which isn't ideal for relaxing on the beach.
With its port and the Ton Sai pier, you might think that Tonsai Beach isn't ideal for relaxing or swimming, but there is a section on the far left when you're facing the island, near the cliff, that is quite interesting. On the one hand, because even at low tide, there's enough water for swimming, but also because there's plenty of snorkeling and a chance to see some tropical fish (especially at low tide), and also because in the late afternoon, the beach is in the shade. When the tide is too low at Loh Dalum for swimming, coming here is a good option.
This is the busiest beach on Koh Phi Phi, although at low tide, the water recedes quite far, meaning swimming is only possible for a few hours a day. It's also the party beach at night. There are kayak rentals, restaurants, and the famous Ibiza party scene.
Just a half-hour walk from the village of Tonsai, Long Beach offers an excellent alternative to the busy Loh Dalum Beach. A favorite with travelers, it stands out for its proximity to Shark Point, a renowned snorkeling spot. It can also be reached by water taxi for around 150 THB from Tonsai. Be careful of the rocks at low tide. There are a few hotels on this beachfront that are a good alternative for staying away from the crowds while still being close to the village.
Located at the northeast tip of Koh Phi Phi, this beach is only accessible by boat, making it an ideal spot for a peaceful getaway, away from the hustle and bustle. For a long time, this part of the island was inhabited by a community of sea gypsies whose village still exists but now coexists with several resorts located along the beach.
Two private bays accessible via the Viking Nature Resort or by kayak from Long Beach. Fine sand and few crowds.
Located a 15-minute walk from Long Beach, this beach has no facilities (bring food and drinks).
These two beaches are very close but very different:
Small, exclusive cove with only one hotel. Snorkeling is possible between the emerald sea and the cliffs. Accessible by jungle trek (well signposted from the viewpoints) or by water taxi.
Ghost beach that disappears at high tide. Accessible only by private boat. I've never been there yet.
Up there are actually three viewpoints, including number two, which offers the most beautiful and famous view of Koh Phi Phi Island. You absolutely have to go up there if you want to get THE photo of Koh Phi Phi and take a selfie that will make your friends jealous. The sunsets from up there are also often superb!
This turquoise lagoon surrounded by steep limestone cliffs offers a superb setting! Featured on almost all boat tours of Koh Phi Phi that also go to Maya Bay, it is also very popular with tourists who generally swim there, or even do a bit of snorkeling.
The best time to go to Koh Phi Phi is from December to April. From May the monsoon sprinkles the island regularly with torrential downpours. September is particularly a bad moment to go to Phi Phi islands, it is the rainiest month. It is also better to not com in October.

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