Travel to Cambodia: the practical guide

Why travel to Cambodia?

The one place not to miss in Cambodia is Angkor and its temples in the middle of the jungle. It is one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world and clearly the place that has fascinated me most in all my travels around the globe (and I have been to Egypt, my childhood dream). For them alone, Cambodia is worth the trip.

But of course the country is not just Angkor: a lively capital on the banks of the Mekong, peaceful colonial towns such as Battambang and Kampot, islands with still unspoilt beaches such as Koh Rong, rice fields as far as the eye can see, the Mekong dolphins and the hills of Mondulkiri.

The country is easy to travel around: distances are reasonable, the roads have improved a lot, Khmer food (amok, lok lak, Kampot pepper crab) is delicious and Cambodians are very welcoming. Prices are low and accommodation offers excellent value for money. From Thailand, it is the perfect addition to a trip to Southeast Asia.

The temples of Angkor

The capital of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to the 15th century, Angkor covers more than 400 km² north of Siem Reap. The site has dozens of temples: Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, the city of Angkor Thom and the face towers of the Bayon, Ta Prohm overgrown by silk-cotton trees, Banteay Srei and its uniquely delicate carvings, not forgetting Preah Khan, Neak Pean or Pre Rup at sunset.

The Angkor Pass is required to enter the park: $37 for 1 day, $62 for 3 days (to be used within 10 days) and $72 for 7 days (to be used within one month), free for children under 12 on presentation of their passport. It is sold at the official ticket office (Angkor Ticket Office, cards accepted) or online on the official Angkor Enterprise website. The ticket office opens at 5 am; from 4:30 pm, tickets bought are valid for the next day, which lets you see the sunset for free the day before.

Appropriate dress is required: shoulders and knees covered, otherwise you may be refused access to the upper levels of the temples (the Bakan of Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng). Set off early to enjoy the cooler hours and avoid the crowds, and take a break at the hottest time of day.

A good guide completely changes the visit: they bring the bas-reliefs to life, know the best times and help you avoid the crowds.

Visa and entry requirements

Most nationalities, including British, American, Australian and Canadian citizens, need a 30-day tourist visa, with a passport valid for at least 6 months after the date you leave the country.

• E-visa (recommended): $30, to be applied for only on the official website evisa.gov.kh, with an ID photo and a copy of your passport. It is usually issued within 3 working days. Beware of websites that imitate the official one and charge twice the price.
• Visa on arrival: available at international airports (Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville) and at some border crossings, for $30 to $35 in cash and an ID photo.
• E-Arrival, compulsory: all travellers must fill in the electronic arrival card within 7 days before entry on arrival.gov.kh or in the official app. It is free and replaces the paper forms (immigration, health and customs), but it is not a visa.

The tourist visa can be extended once for 30 days, through the immigration services or an agency. Overstaying costs $10 a day. The rules change regularly: check them with the embassy before you leave.

Health and vaccinations

No vaccination is compulsory for travellers arriving from Europe or North America (yellow fever is only required if you arrive from a country at risk). It is recommended to be up to date with routine vaccinations and to be vaccinated against hepatitis A. Depending on the length and type of trip, your doctor may advise typhoid, Japanese encephalitis (long stays in rural areas) or rabies (long or remote stays).

Malaria is present in rural and forest areas, but not in Phnom Penh or around the Tonle Sap, and the risk is negligible in the tourist area of Angkor. Dengue, transmitted by mosquitoes that bite during the day, is present throughout the country, especially in the rainy season: use repellent, wear covering clothes and sleep under a net. Only drink bottled or filtered water.

Private hospitals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are fine for common problems, but serious cases are often evacuated to Bangkok: travel insurance covering repatriation is essential. For personal advice, visit a travel clinic at least a month before you leave.

When to go to Cambodia?

• November to February: the best time. Dry and relatively cool season (25 to 30 °C), clear skies, ideal for Angkor. It is also the high season: book your hotels in advance, especially for Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year.
• March to May: the hot season. 35 to 40 °C in the afternoon: visit the temples at dawn. Khmer New Year (mid-April) is very festive, but many Cambodians travel and transport is packed.
• June to October: the rainy season. Short but heavy showers, usually late in the day. The landscapes are green, the rice fields magnificent, the temples less crowded and prices lower. The Tonle Sap is at its highest, and it is the season for boats between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Some country tracks and islands become less accessible in September and October.

Money: dollars, riels, cards and ATMs

Cambodia lives with two currencies: the US dollar, used for almost everything (hotels, restaurants, transport, Angkor Pass), and the riel (about 4,000 riels to 1 dollar), used mainly for change under one dollar and in markets. Prices are often shown in both currencies.

• ATMs: plentiful in towns, they dispense dollars. Each withdrawal is charged by the Cambodian bank ($4 to $10 depending on the bank, on top of your own bank’s fees): withdraw rarely but in large amounts. Few or no ATMs on the small islands and in the countryside.
• Notes in good condition: torn, stained or written-on dollar notes are often refused. Bring new notes and keep small denominations ($1, $5 and $10) for tuk-tuks and markets.
• Exchanging pounds or euros: easy in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, at market money changers or banks. Elsewhere, bring dollars.
• Bank cards: accepted in hotels, good restaurants and supermarkets, sometimes with a 2 to 3% surcharge. Let your bank know before you leave.

Safety

Cambodia is a safe country for travellers, with a few precautions. In Phnom Penh, bag snatching from motorbikes is common: keep your phone and bag on the inside, including in a tuk-tuk. In the countryside, landmines and unexploded ordnance remain: do not leave marked paths, especially around remote temples. Areas close to the Thai border have been advised against since the 2025 conflict. Finally, be wary of job offers that seem too good to be true found online: online scam networks recruit foreigners this way.